This month we have the pleasure of sharing a gear review from one of our Ambassadors, Matthew. We hope you enjoy his narrative of his adventure climbing Cotopaxi as much as we did! Featured in this review are his experiences with:
– Mammut Taiss HS Hooded Jacket
– Optic Nerve Eyewear FixiePHENOM Photochromic
– Outdoor Research Super Couloir GORE-TEX Sensor Gloves
Adventure Background:
I wore these items when climbing the volcanos, Cotopaxi (19,400′) and Chimborazo (20,700′) in Ecuador during the March climbing season. For gear size reference, I am 6’ 198 lbs. The altitude of gear use ranged from 12,500′ up to 20,700′ with temperatures consistently between the single digits and mid-twenties. The only exception was a day hike (altitude 12,500′) where the temperature was low-forties with 25mph wind gusts. However, on the climbs (altitude 15,600’+), the wind conditions were low moderate, no higher than 10-15mph. Both climbs began around midnight under a clear sky and full moon. From the beginning of each climb, we were in crampons, roped up, and making use of the ice axe.
The Outdoor Research Super Couloir GORE-TEX Sensor Gloves did a great job on warmth as well as handling the ice axe. In general, I don’t like to wear gloves and always opt to go without if possible. However, I was pleasantly surprised by these OR gloves.The rubber grip helped maintain my hold on the axe when dropping it meant never seeing it again and putting myself in significant danger. I appreciated this, because whether on the near-vertical faces or the numerous traverses (both ascending and descending), throughout the climb I was continually switching the axe between hands. The OR gloves did a fantastic job on the touchscreen of my smart phone; I didn’t have to take them off to take pictures of the gorgeous views. Finally, these OR gloves were easy on/off due to the wrist sinch used for tightening and a band located at the end of the glove to assist pulling it on, as well as the wrist guards (to stop from them falling down the mountain when off).
In a few places we had to climb near vertical faces of snow and ice, but thankfully the Mammut Taiss HS Hooded Jacket was flexible and durable to handle the movement and ice. I wore this jacket with 2 layers underneath (wool long underwear and a fleece). For me, no matter the temperature, I work up quite a sweat. I appreciated the Mammut jacket’s armpit vents; while most jackets of this class have adopted the armpit vent feature, the Mammut vents are larger (when compared to my other jackets). I get hot, and that translates to sweat, and that means a wet thermal layer in the freezing cold, which is a dangerous situation climbers must work to avoid. Also, the jacket’s hood/neck design was excellent. The hood easily went over my beanie-helmet combo, but wasn’t too big to fall over my face. Additionally, the jacket is designed to allow the neck component to zip up over most my face to protect against the wind and cold, which I used on the climbs.
The Optic Nerve FixiePHENOM Photochromic Glasses may be one of my new favorite pieces of gear. The transition lenses did an incredible job from night to daylight. I wore the Optic Nerve from basecamp at midnight to the summit and back to basecamp without taking them off. This meant I didn’t have to take two pieces of eyewear and stop to change them out or switch out lenses mid-climb as the sun came up. Also, I’m paranoid about breaking my eyewear in my pack so it was nice not to have to worry about an additional pair. The rubber coating helps keep them on your head firmly. Finally, they did a good job protected my eyes from the snow dustups and a great job shielding my eyes from the sun reflecting off the snow. Having gear that can double or perform multiple functions is convenient and the Optic Nerve was just that; I’ll be wearing them throughout the year.
Summary:
Mammut Taiss HS Hooded Jacket (Size Large)
- Great shell for protecting against the wind and snow blowing off the side of the mountain
- Hood/neck design worked perfectly with the helmet and beanie; adjustable; didn’t fall over the eyes
- Armpit vents were larger than other comparable jackets; the expanded size was critical in venting body heat, thus helping prevent moisture from building up, while still offering protection against the wind
- Waist ripcord to hold in body heat
- Wrist Velcro to hold in body heat
- Easily fit layers underneath
- Very flexible with movement
- Not recommended above 19,500′ or in temps/wind chills in the teens or below with considerable layering
Optic Nerve Eyewear FixiePHENOM Photochromic
- The transition lens, clear at night, shaded in the sunlight
- Two-in-one; no hassle of switching eyewear or changing lenses mid-climb
- Protected my eyes from snowy wind and any snow kicked up by other climbers
- Protected my eyes from snow glare reflected from the sun
- Great anti-slipping rubber grip
Outdoor Research Super Couloir GORE-TEX Sensor Gloves (Size Large)
- Easy on and off with opposite hand
- Very “grippy.” Meaning the rubber stuck to the ice axe very well (using a Black Diamond axe for material reference)
- Worked amazingly well with my smart phone when taking pictures
- When climbing Cotopaxi, I did not wear liners underneath; when climbing the higher Chimborazo, I did wear liners, which fit inside the glove fine
- A hand would get a brief chill if holding the ice axe in one hand for too long
TLDR:
Mammut Taiss HS Hooded Jacket (Size Large)
- Great shell
- Adjustable hood/neck protects face and covers helmet
- Large armpit vents
- Waist ripcord & wrist velcro to capture body heat
- Easily fit layers underneath
- Flexible with movement
- Not recommended above 19,500′ or in temps/wind chills in the teens or below with considerable layering
Optic Nerve Eyewear FixiePHENOM Photochromic
- The transition lens means two-in-one for night and day
- Strong lenses
- Worked well against snow glare
- Anti-slipping rubber grip
Outdoor Research Super Couloir GORE-TEX Sensor Gloves (Size Large)
- Wrist guards
- “Grippy” rubber palm/fingers
- Touchscreen compatible
- Compatible with liners
- Easy on and off with opposite hand
We’d love to hear about your adventures. Tag us on Instagram or shoot us an email!
Adventure on!
